Muffler Replacement - 98/99 (2000+ may have minor part differences)

Difficulty(0-10): 3
Time: 45 min - 3 hours
Tool Specialty(0-10): 4
Parts/Tools Needed
Bosal (or equivelant) muffler 279-773
90917-06045 - Gaskets, 2 required
17452-50050 - rear clamp
17451-50050 - rear clamp gasket
91515-61035 - Flange Bolt, 2 optional
94185-61000 - Lock Nut, 2 optional
91641-80840 - Bolt w/ washer for clamp
17565-74280 - Hangers, 3 optional
Breaker Bar or Large Socket Wrench
PB Blaster
14mm wrench
Dremel or Grinder
Torque Values
Flange nuts: 40 ft-lbs
Rear Clamp: 63 ft-lbs


The factory exhaust on the 100 series is nice and quiet giving you a peaceful journey wherever you go... until it rusts and gets loud and obnoxious without any of the performance gains that you want with a loud exhaust. Thankfully, changing it out for an OEM-like muffler is cheap and easy. There are aftermarket performance (read: loud) options, but for me the Land Cruiser is just that... a Cruiser. I want it to be quiet and tamed. I'll leave the wide open throttle roar to a car with some real acceleration and keep the bus quiet and comfy. You can go with the Toyota OEM part for a few hundred more than the aftermarket counterparts. My Bosal system is holding up well after 6 months, but results can vary depending on your location. Folks outside the southwest US may want to pay the extra for the OEM system with better steel or an aftermarket system that is full Stainless Steel.


Removal is very simple. The factory service diagram shows a bunch of parts in a weird orientation that looks like a puzzle, but really it's a simple job. The muffler has two pipes on the front. Each has two nuts/bolts. Those are probably rusted onto each other and might be hard/impossible to remove. Spray them with penetrating oil (PB Blaster works well) for a few days before you start the job. That'll make it a lot easier to remove bolts. If you can't get the bolts/nuts to budge with a wrench you may need to cut them off or grind them off. A dremel or angle grinder does the trick. The clamp at the back of the system is similar. You may need to cut the whole thing off. I'd have a completely new clamp on hand and just assume you're going to ruin the old one. Once you remove the 4 bolts/nuts at the front and the clamp in the back the muffler will be somewhat free. Just wrestle it off the rubber hangers (there should be two) and it should come out entirely.


Install is the opposite of removal. Make sure the old gasket material is cleaned off the piping of the car. Slide the new muffler onto the hangers or the rear section first. You can then get the front sections held up with a bolt and get everything lined up. DON'T FORGET YOUR NEW GASKETS! You don't want to climb back under when you start it up and realize it's leaking because there are no gaskets. Torque the bolts, start her up, check for leaks by putting your hands around the pipework feeling for puffs of hot air. Careful, it'll get hot pretty quick. That's it, you're done!